We posted recently on Instagram about some new additions that are available on our website and in it was a beautiful piece of paalum paazhamum kattams with gorgeous buttis. used the word kattam and instantly was hounded by all the queries asking what the word even means.
In Tamil, kattam means square or checks. It is a fundamental and traditional design pattern, prominent in handwoven south indian textiles, especially Kanjeevarams
The kattam pattern isn't just simple design, it symbolises order, balance and a defined, sacred space. The precise, symmetrical weaving of the checks showcases the craftsmanship of the Tamil weavers.
Similar grid structures are found in principles of architectural design of the region, connecting textiles to broader cultural design principles.
Different types of kattams are-
- Paimadi Kattam (Basketry weave)
Small precise criss cross checks that resemble interlaced weaving. The pattern uses a tabby weave to create a textured geometric weave.
2. Oosi Kattam (Needle Kattam)
Precise needle like horizontal and vertical lines forming fine checks made of zari. High quality silk with pure gold and silver jari is used, making them valuable heirlooms.
3. Kottadi Kattam (square checks)
Classic checkered or grid design, created through skilful interlacing of threads
4. Paalam Pazhamum
Multicoloured checks usually in three primary colours. the interplay of the colours in the warp and weft creates a combination of three more colours, testament to the skill of the weavers.
5. Koorai Kattam
Square, roof like patterns, all over the body of the sari, often with zari or other threads.
6. Madras checks
Irregular, colorful checks, typically with a minimum of two colors. The fabric woven is usually simple and breathable with a rustic feel.
6. Kasa Kasa kattam
Poppy seed like microchecks